A Cold-Weather Skincare Routine, Backed by Chemistry
Justin Jang
Spring 2024
Now that winter is in full swing, skin issues such as
dryness and acne worsen for many. Here's how to keep
your skin stable throughout the cold-weather months.
"Cleanse, Treat, Moisturize, Protect"
"Cleanse, Treat, Moisturize, Protect" is the four-step
basis of the skincare regimen advocated by leading
dermatologists. A cleanser is a product used to remove
dirt, oils, makeup, sunscreen, dead skin cells, and fine
particles caused by air pollution naturally accumulated
by the skin each day. You may refer to it as "face wash"
or "soap." A treatment is any product formulated to
combat a specific skin concern such as fine lines, acne,
or sun damage. A moisturizer, or lotion, is used after
cleansing and treating to keep the skin hydrated.
Finally, to protect means to use a product containing
SPF, often sunscreen, to shield the skin against harmful
ultraviolet rays emitted by sunlight. Though this
four-step routine works effectively year-round, it is
critical in winter to use the right products for your
skin type throughout each step, as skin reacts to
changes in temperature and humidity.
"Cleanse, Treat, Moisturize, Protect" is the four-step
basis of the skincare regimen advocated by leading
dermatologists.
Step One: Cleanse
Step One: Cleanse. Humidity levels tend to drop during
colder months as the air holds less moisture. The skin
often reacts to dry weather by overproducing sebum, the
natural oils secreted by sebaceous glands in the skin.
The increased sebum can lead to unwanted breakouts of
whiteheads (pimples) and blackheads. While your first
thought may be to reach for a cleanser that combats
acne, this could be counterintuitive as many
acne-eliminating facial washes contain active
ingredients such as salicylic acid (HOC6H4COOH), hydroxy
acids (RCH(OH)COOH), and benzoyl peroxide compounds
(C14H10O4) that further dry out the skin. Therefore, the
better choice is to use a more gentle cleanser without
such active ingredients to remove impurities without
stripping the skin of moisture.
Top Pick: The Inkey List Oat Cleansing Balm contains oat (Avena sativa). Oat possesses avenanthramides, phenolic alkaloid antioxidants that moisturize the skin and soothe irritation.
Top Pick: The Inkey List Oat Cleansing Balm contains oat (Avena sativa). Oat possesses avenanthramides, phenolic alkaloid antioxidants that moisturize the skin and soothe irritation.
Step Two: Treat
Step Two: Treat. Fall and Winter often highlight two
major skincare concerns: Dry, flaky skin and acne caused
by sebum overproduction. For dehydrated skin, a serum
containing hyaluronic acid (C33H54N2O23), squalane
(C30H62), or snail mucin can lock in hydration and
protect the skin's moisture barrier. For acne, a cream
containing retinol (C20H3O) or a toner containing
lipohydroxy acid (C30H40O8) will combat unwanted
breakouts and dark spots caused by previous blemishes
through their resurfacing qualities and their ability to
lift dead skin.
Top Pick (Dryness): The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum is a hygroscopic (water-absorbing) serum that helps skin retain moisture, even in dry conditions.
Top Pick (Acne): SkinCeuticals LHA Toner employs Lipohydroxy acid to exfoliate the skin, removing dead skin cells to reveal blemish-free skin through consistent use.
Step Three: Moisturize
Top Pick (Dryness): The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum is a hygroscopic (water-absorbing) serum that helps skin retain moisture, even in dry conditions.
Top Pick (Acne): SkinCeuticals LHA Toner employs Lipohydroxy acid to exfoliate the skin, removing dead skin cells to reveal blemish-free skin through consistent use.
Step Three: Moisturize
After cleansing and treating, use a thick, dense
facial cream to hydrate your skin and create a barrier
between your skin and the environment. A good
moisturizer will also keep the rest of your skincare
routine in place. You won't have to be as picky when
choosing a moisturizer, but make sure it is
non-comedogenic (will not clog pores).
Top Pick: COSRX Advanced Snail 92 All-in-One Cream contains 92% snail mucin (cryptomphalus aspersa). While it sounds gross, snail secretion filtrate contains glycoprotein enzymes that repair and soothe sensitized skin, a condition that worsens in dry winter months.
Step Four: Protect
Top Pick: COSRX Advanced Snail 92 All-in-One Cream contains 92% snail mucin (cryptomphalus aspersa). While it sounds gross, snail secretion filtrate contains glycoprotein enzymes that repair and soothe sensitized skin, a condition that worsens in dry winter months.
Step Four: Protect
A common misconception is that SPF, or sunscreen, is
unnecessary in colder months. However, harmful
ultraviolet rays can penetrate the skin year-round
if not protected against. The American Academy of
Dermatology also recommends using a non-comedogenic
mineral sunscreen (rather than a chemical sunscreen)
for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin to avoid
breakouts.
Top Pick : Sun Bum Mineral SPF 50 Sunscreen Lotion - Fragrance-Free checks all the boxes. As the name suggests, it's mineral and fragrance-free, which means it won't irritate sensitive skin or cause unwanted breakouts while protecting your skin from UV damage.
Takeaway
Top Pick : Sun Bum Mineral SPF 50 Sunscreen Lotion - Fragrance-Free checks all the boxes. As the name suggests, it's mineral and fragrance-free, which means it won't irritate sensitive skin or cause unwanted breakouts while protecting your skin from UV damage.
Takeaway
There's no end-all-be-all to skincare. Perfecting
your routine can take months if not years.
However, with increased knowledge about the
effects of skincare ingredients and chemical
compounds, you can feel confident that you have
control over your skin, even if you can't control
the weather.
Sources:
https://www.byrdie.com/
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/cosmetics-exploring-humectants
https://cosmedica-skincare.com/pages/10-benefits-of-hyaluronic-acid
https://www.garnierusa.com/tips-how-tos/what-is-a-facial-cleanser
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5300717/
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/2-Hydroxy-5-octanoylbenzoic-acid
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Squalane
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26091385/
https://www.sciencedirect.com/
https://unsplash.com/s/photos/men-skincare
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZVKiWODpJ0
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/cosmetics-exploring-humectants
https://cosmedica-skincare.com/pages/10-benefits-of-hyaluronic-acid
https://www.garnierusa.com/tips-how-tos/what-is-a-facial-cleanser
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5300717/
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/2-Hydroxy-5-octanoylbenzoic-acid
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Squalane
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26091385/
https://www.sciencedirect.com/
https://unsplash.com/s/photos/men-skincare
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZVKiWODpJ0