Making sense of consumer cosmetics through Chemistry
Spring 2024
Cosmetics in the marketplace
Most cosmetics in today’s marketplace contain many
ingredients that work to achieve the efficacy and safety
of the product. People use these products every day, but
have you ever looked at the ingredients on the label in
a bottle of shampoo? The average person will likely find
names of chemicals that are difficult to recognize and
decipher. All of these chemicals work to achieve the
product’s stated purpose and customer satisfaction. But
what specifically are these chemicals? How were they
made? Are they completely safe for our health? A closer
examination of the ingredients in many cosmetic products
will often reveal substances such as preservatives,
fragrances, pigmenters, smootheners, and cleansers.
Manufacturers of cosmetics have a legal responsibility to ensure their products are free from harmful bacteria and are safe. Preservatives, like parabens, discourage harmful bacterial growth in cosmetic products. Parabens are a derivative of para hydroxybenzoic acid, a substance that occurs “…naturally in many fruits and vegetables.” Very often, one finds parabens in shampoos and conditioners. However, recent studies have shown that parabens are harmful to humans, potentially increasing the risk of breast cancer. Chemists and dermatologists have pushed back against this as well, stating that “paraben-free” companies replace them with even more toxic chemicals, such as methylisothiazolinone.
Perfumes and fragrances
Manufacturers of cosmetics have a legal responsibility to ensure their products are free from harmful bacteria and are safe. Preservatives, like parabens, discourage harmful bacterial growth in cosmetic products. Parabens are a derivative of para hydroxybenzoic acid, a substance that occurs “…naturally in many fruits and vegetables.” Very often, one finds parabens in shampoos and conditioners. However, recent studies have shown that parabens are harmful to humans, potentially increasing the risk of breast cancer. Chemists and dermatologists have pushed back against this as well, stating that “paraben-free” companies replace them with even more toxic chemicals, such as methylisothiazolinone.
Perfumes are another type of cosmetic that people use
frequently, such as when going to school, out to dinner,
or to a fancy event. Perfumes, like deodorant, shampoo,
and hair conditioner, all contain fragrances that
enhance the scent or smell of a particular product and
are created by the blending of both natural or
artificial substances. Aldehydes, for example, are
compounds found in organic materials, like roses. They
are very sweet smelling and typically come in perfumes.
However, there are also harmful chemicals in fragrances.
For instance, benzophenone may disrupt the endocrine
system, which regulates hormones, and butoxyethanol is a
chemical which can irritate one’s eyes and skin. Thus,
fragrances have their upsides as well as their
downsides.
"When it comes to makeup, cosmetics come in numerous
colors. Different chemicals may cause different pigments
in these products."
Cosmetics
When it comes to makeup, cosmetics come in numerous colors. Different chemicals may cause different pigments in these products. Pigments are colored powders, which can be either organic or inorganic. For instance, metals like “Pigment-grade titanium dioxide [are] used in some cosmetics to aid in hiding blemishes and brightening the skin. Titanium dioxide allows for the use of thinner coatings of make-up material for the same desired effect.” Thus, one can find titanium dioxide in products like sunscreen, but they’re used in almost every cosmetic. To get bright colors, like the ones in eye shadow, chemicals like iron oxides can make yellow, red, and black shades. There are many other chemicals which produce colors for other cosmetics, like lipstick, blush, or nail polish as well.
In moisturizers, “emollients are used to make cosmetics smooth and easy to apply and make the skin feel softer and smoother.” Through filling gaps between cells, a layer forms on the outer cell and holds onto the moisture. Emollients may “...treat dry, itchy skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. [They] are found in creams, lotions, ointments, and sprays.” Some common emollients in cosmetics include mineral oil, petroleum jelly, and glycerin, which all bring in moisture to the skin. Furthermore, citric acid, an organic compound, helps brighten the skin. One typically uses it near their eyes, lips, mouth, and nose. Specifically, sodium citrate is a salt of citric acid and is found in lipstick and soap, helping preserve them and adjust their pH levels (their acidity) to kill harmful bacteria.
Cleansers Finally, cleansers are very significant in our every-day lives, whether it’s during a shower or while brushing our teeth. Surfactants are compounds used to reduce surface tension of water. Reducing the surface tension of water involves breaking its hydrogen bonds, which holds water to itself in its cohesive property. In your shaving cream, there are many surfactants, which allow razors to remove hair easily due to the foam it produces, making a barrier between the skin and the razor. Specifically, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is a surfactant which traps oil and dirt in your hair in products like shampoo, making it easier for the water to wash it away. In toothpaste, this creates foam to remove the food from your teeth. Furthermore, Toluene (known as methylbenzene) and Acetone are ingredients in nail polish removers which dissolve and break down other particles.
Overall, every day, there are key elements of every cosmetic we use which serve a different purpose. These elements can differentiate cosmetics from each other as well. Its important that we know which chemicals we apply on ourselves in our everyday lives and how they are used, as some can cause issues with our bodies.
Sources:
https://sensient-beauty.com/insights/dye-or-pigment-using-the-right-ingredients-in-makeup-formulation/
https://dhanveenpigments.com/
https://www.safecosmetics.org/chemicals/fragrance/
https://www.eisenberg.com/pa1173/how-to-make-perfume-last-longer
https://www.safecosmetics.org/chemicals/parabens/
https://www.euromonitor.com/article/the-rise-of-ingredient-led-beauty
https://www.chemicalsafetyfacts.org/health-and-safety/chemistry-of-cosmetics-20-chemicals-that-make-up-personal-care-products/#:~:text=Chemicals%20in%20personal%20care%20and,are%20used%20in%20your%20cosmetics
https://dhanveenpigments.com/
https://www.safecosmetics.org/chemicals/fragrance/
https://www.eisenberg.com/pa1173/how-to-make-perfume-last-longer
https://www.safecosmetics.org/chemicals/parabens/
https://www.euromonitor.com/article/the-rise-of-ingredient-led-beauty
https://www.chemicalsafetyfacts.org/health-and-safety/chemistry-of-cosmetics-20-chemicals-that-make-up-personal-care-products/#:~:text=Chemicals%20in%20personal%20care%20and,are%20used%20in%20your%20cosmetics